Yves Saint Laurent: zojambula zojambula bwino

Zomwe zimadziwika kuti Yves Saint Laurent, yemwe amagwiritsa ntchito mafashoni padziko lonse lapansi, yemwe amayimira njira yopambana kuti apambane, anali, monga akunena, wokondedwa wa tsogolo. M'munda wa chilengedwe, adafika pamwamba.

Chigawo chodziwika bwino

Pafupi pafupifupi chirichonse chimadziwika ponena za mfumu ndi woweruza mafashoni. "Woimbayo wa chikazi", yemwe anayambitsa kalembedwe kake - omwe adatchulidwa ndi dzina lake la Yves Saint Laurent, yemwe adayambira mu 1936 ndipo anamaliza mu 2008. Wopanga mtsogolo anabadwira ku Oran (Algeria, komwe ndi dziko la France), m'banja lachifumu . Koma, chofunika kwambiri, adali ndi ubale wapamtima komanso wokondana. Chikondi ndi ubwino kuyambira kale kwambiri zinali kuzungulira ndi Yves Saint Laurent. Zithunzi za mbuye wamkulu zikuwonetsa kuti anali ndi moyo woposa abwenzi ake kuposa moyo wake wonse.

Chiwawa cha miyambo ya banja

Kuyambira mibadwomibadwo ku banja la Laurent, amuna amakhala ndi udindo walamulo, ndipo ndithudi, njira yomweyi inkayembekezeredwa ndi Willow, yemwe ankakonda kupenta kuposa china chirichonse padziko lapansi, makamaka kupanga ndi kupaka zovala za doll a alongo aang'ono awiri. Amayi anatha kuona chinachake m'mithunzi ya mwana wake, mwa njira iliyonse athandizira zokondweretsazi, ndipo atachoka sukulu ku Oran iwo pamodzi adachoka mu 1953 ku Paris. Osadzipatsanso nthawi kuti adziŵe zosangalatsa za moyo wamzindawu, tsogolo la mtsogolo lilowa sukulu yopangidwa ndi High Fashion Syndicate . Maphunziro "high couture" amayendera mobwerezabwereza, apa akuphunzira ndikupeza mpata wochita nawo mpikisano, womwe unayambitsidwa ndi International Wool Syndicate.

Mumakonda muses

Kodi sizodabwitsa pamene mtsikana wazaka 17 yemwe ali wamkulu pamakampani apamwamba pa mpikisano wodalirika amayamba malo oyamba? Ndemanga yaing'ono yamadzulo yamadzulo kapena kuvala zovala, yomwe inakhala imodzi ya makadi a bizinesi a luso la mafashoni, idapangidwa ndi iye ndendende ndiye, mu 1953.

Yves Saint Laurent, yemwe mbiri yake yodzala ndi zochitika zodabwitsa, kuchokera mu mphindi yapadera iyi imakhala yotchuka mu mafashoni. Ponena za iye mumakhala nkhani yodzitamandira m'magazini "Vok", yomwe imaphatikizapo ziwonetsero za fuko lachichepere. Pa mpikisano, chiyambi chojambula mafashoni chinatumiza zithunzi zitatu zomwe zinapambana jury.

Patadutsa zaka ziwiri, Laurent adalowanso mpikisano wina - "Woolmark." Ndipo apa ntchito zake amapatsidwa mphotho yoyamba, koma akugawana ndi katswiri wina wachinyamata - Karl Lagerfeld. Ofufuza ena a moyo ndi luso la Laurent amakhulupirira kuti kuyambira nthawi ino, ubwenzi wa pakati pa akuluakulu awiri apamwamba padziko lonse lapansi unayamba. Mwina, chifukwa cha mpikisano umenewu, onsewa adafika pamalonda a Olimpiki mu bizinesi yawo.

Chiyambi cha ntchito yabwino kwambiri

Pambuyo pake, Christian Dior mwiniwake akuitanira Laurent ku "Nyumba ya Dior" yake yotchuka, yomwe Yves Saint Laurent anagwira ntchito mu 1955-1957. Mafilimu, moyo waumwini, chilengedwe cha mnyamata amayamba chidwi ndi anthu onse. Kuti zinthu zimuyendere bwino amayamba kutsatira mosamala mafilimu ndi ochita masewera olimbitsa thupi. Dior amamupanga kukhala wothandizira. Mgwirizano wawo unali wochuluka kwambiri, mosasamala kanthu kuti mwini wa "Dom Dior" ankakonda kwambiri akazi achikulire, komanso Laurent - ali mnyamata.

Mu 1957, Dior mwadzidzidzi amamwalira, ndipo Laurent ali ndi zaka 21 amakhala mtsogoleri wa chizindikiro chodabwitsa. Mu 1958, gulu loyamba la "Trapezia", lomwe linapanga furore mu mafashoni, linasindikizidwa. Mavalidwe afupipafupi a ma trapezoidal adalandira zambiri. "Sensual elegance" - kotero nyuzipepalayi inatchedwa kalembedwe katsopano, yemwe analembapo Yves Saint Laurent. Zithunzi, zithunzi, ndondomeko za moyo wapamtima sizikutsika m'mapepala.

Black band

Koma panali nthawi zina pamoyo wa wokonza zinthu komanso nthawi yovuta. Anatumizidwa kulowa usilikali ndipo anatumizidwa ku Africa. Zowopsya za nkhondo, bungwe la Laurent lachinsinsi la moyo, lomwe limagwirizana ndi kukongola kwabasi, silingakhoze kupirira izo. Madokotala amphamvu kwambiri a chipatala cha dipatimenti ya maganizo ya chipatala cha usilikali anali atapatsidwa mankhwala osokoneza bongo komanso opaleshoni. Pa nthawi yomweyo, udindo wa mkulu wa nyumba ya Dior ndi wosankhidwa mwalamulo ndi munthu wina. Laurent akuyamba ndikugonjetsa mulandu. Amalipira chilango cha 700,000 francs. Kugonjetsa olakwa sikunatulukidwe ndi munthu amene akuchotsa kuvutika maganizo kwauzimu.

Apanso mwayi

Pierre Berger anawathandiza, mothandizidwa ndi chaka cha 1961, ndi ndalama za Mariyonali wa ku America dzina lake Mark Robins, "Yves Saint-Laurent" adatsegulidwa, yemwe Yves Saint Laurent ndi mwini wake. Mafilimu a sukuluyi sizinathe ndi kudzipha, zoyesayesa zomwe zapangidwa mobwerezabwereza. Kuyambira nthawiyi, Yves Saint Laurent amayamba moyo watsopano wodzala ndi zojambula - amalankhula mosatopa machitidwe atsopano omwe amatsutsana ndi zizoloŵezi zomwe zikupezekapo. Makanema amamuyitana iye wamatsenga wochokera ku mafashoni.

Amapanga mayesero olimbitsa mtima - pakati pa anthu omwe amaoneka ngati atsikana omwe ali ndi khungu lakuda, Laurent amauza apantuits azimayi, majeti a safari ndi madiresi owonekera.

Malo atsopano komanso oyenera kuzindikira

Mtundu wakuti "YSL" umakhala archipopular, ndipo mu 1964 umapereka zonunkhira zotchedwa "Y". Ma tuxedos achikazi, omwe amadziwika ndi iye mu 1966, ndi ena mwa makadi ake oitanira. Mphoto ina inagwa modzidzimutsa, ndipo ufumu wa Yves Saint Laurent umakula kwambiri, umagwiritsa ntchito mafakitale atsopano.

Mndandanda wa zojambulazo, woperekedwa ndi iye pakati pa nkhondo ya Vietnam, unabweretsa mlembi wa Oscar woyamba ndi kudziwika kwa mayiko onse. Anayambitsa kalembedwe ka "Opium" ya dandy ndi yaikazi yapamwamba. Laurent mpaka kutalika kwake - ndiye yekhayo amene amapanga mafashoni omwe ntchito zawo zinkaperekedwa kuwonetsere pa moyo wawo pa Metropolitan Museum, ndipo kenako inatsatiridwa mu 1985 ndi Oscar wina, nthawi ino Kupambana ndi ntchito ya nthawi yaitali mu mafashoni.

Mayi ake anali Catherine Deneuve ndi Maya Plisetskaya. Nenani kwa wopanga wamkulu ndi dziko la mafashoni mu 2002. Pa siteji ya Pompidou Center, zosonkhanitsa zake zatsopano zinasonyezedwa. Pambuyo pa tsiku la 72 la kubadwa, mu 2008 wamkulu Yves Saint Laurent, biography, moyo waumwini, amene chithunzi chake, monga magulu ake otchuka, akupezekapo, anamwalira. Mu chithunzi chomwe chili pansipa wopanga chojambulacho chikugwiridwa ndi ziwiri zake za muses. Kulongosola zotsatira za ntchito yotanganidwa ndi yopambana monga wokonza angakhale ngati mawu ake otchuka kuti m'moyo uno amadandaula kuti sanabwere ndi jeans.