The nkhani wotchuka wa akufa Everest

Nthawi iliyonse, kupita pamwamba, ndi climber mavuto moyo wake. Pambuyo kukwera kwa pachimake ndi kumva ngati mfumu ya dziko, amadana yekha theka nkhondo. Tsopano anafunikira kuthana ndi njira yomweyo kumbuyo. Zodabwitsa, mapiri zina zinadzala ndi ngozi zambiri.

"Nsapato Green"

Kukwera nsonga chapamwamba lonse ndi maloto aliyense extremal. Zilibe kanthu kuti nkhani ya kamodzi izo kugonjetsa Everest. Lowopsya nyengo ndi mpweya wochepa thupi pamalo okwera mamita zikwi zingapo kungafoole kuchira. Ngakhale kuti okwera ntchito mu magulu zikuchitikadi choncho kuti njira zawo mwina mogwirizana. Limodzi la m'mapanga otsetsereka otchuka kumpoto, inali pamalo okwera mamita 8000, muyaya tikhalabe Indian climber Tsewang Paljor. Kwa zaka 20, iye atagona pa mbali amatetezedwa ndi ovuta lapansi. miyendo Climber anatambasula, zomwe zimachititsa anagonjetsa latsopano la Everest kuti afike tsopano wotchuka nsapato wobiriwira Neon.

The afa, nthawizonse otsala pamwamba pa dziko wotchuka kwambiri, ipitirirabe pa. Komanso, nthawi iliyonse agonjetsi maso awo kuwona matupi awo. Koma si kuwaletsa pofuna kukwaniritsa cholinga ankafuna. Zikuoneka ali wokonzeka kulandira zotsatira aliyense ...

Pothawirapo lomaliza

Okwera, sikuti m'manda mu nthaka. Ambiri a iwo, monga Tsewang Paljor, kupumula mwachindunji pa phiri. Komabe, iye anakhala olemekezeka wolakwiridwayo Everest chifukwa cha nsapato zake wobiriwira. Posachedwapa, mawu awa watupatu n'chimodzimodzi.

Pafupifupi 80% ya okwera kupumula pamaso pa kugwedezeka molimba anajambulapo alcove pa otsetsereka kumpoto. N'zovuta muzindikire munthu atagona apo. Aliyense climber anamvapo konse za izo, anawona kapena kuwerenga za "wobiriwira nsapato".

A funde la mphekesera

Paljor imfa spawned funde la mbiri. Palibe deta zodalirika mmene chitunda MU NUMBER Indian gulu anayesera kuti akagonjetse Everest pa njira kumpoto kum'mawa. Palibe umboni kuti Paljor ndi awiri a comrades ake anafika pamwamba. Akatswiri ena amanena kuti chifukwa cha mkuntho wa chisanu amphamvu ndi aone osauka, gulu suno ake ndi sizinawakhudze nsonga za 500 meters. Pa tsiku ili, Everest anagonjetsa mwa njira ina, ndi wina, zambiri odziwika bwino ndi maulendo ambirimbiri. Ife sitikudziwa kaya Paljor kutumiza zizindikiro teammates thandizo, ndipo vuto akhala chabe ananyalanyaza.

Funso lofunika kwambiri

Izi masewera kwambiri amakopa maso a olemba, publicists ndi olemba filimuyo. Aliyense amene si nkhani kwa mchitidwe migodi, kuyesera kudzatunga mu malingaliro ake a nkhani imene thupi ndi maganizo anayikidwa ndi mavuto ambiri. Kodi zinthu izi, kusintha mwambo ndi khalidwe labwino? Komabe, funso lofunika kwambiri ndi chidwi kuti aliyense wolemba akudzifunsa nthawi zambiri ndi izi: kodi onse ankafunikadi? Kodi daredevils awa olimba mtima kusewera ndi imfa malo otsetsereka phompho la phiri la Everest?

Alan Arnett, ndi climber ku Colorado, amachititsa ake palokha ziwerengero mwini. Malinga ndi kaundula wake, m'mbali mwa mapiri aakulu a dziko pakati pa 1924 ndi 2015 unapha anthu 283, 170 amene ndi nzika za Nepal. Chiwerengero cha anthu amene anakhudzidwa ndi 4% ya okwera chiwerengero nthawi asilikali ake pamwamba.

Background kuchokera mkamwa mwa mayi womwalirayo

Tsewang Paljor anali mwana wamkulu m'banjamo. Mwina iye anaganiza udindo kuonetsetsa mabanja awo, ndipo izi zinachititsa kuti ulimi ang'onoang'ono ndipo sakonda zinthu zina zofunika pamoyo. Mnyamatayu ngakhale atasiya sukulu pambuyo kalasi 10, chifukwa iye analonjezedwa ndi malo m'mayiko a Chitibeta Border Police. Ogwira ntchito za bungwe zida bwino okwera kwambiri.

Amayi amathandiza chilakolako cha mwana zolimbitsira awo mu bungwe. Chinthu chokha sakugwirizana ndi ndi chitunda cha Everest. Choncho pamene Paljor osankhidwa kuti agwirizane ndi gulu osankhika okwera, iye sanali kunena zoona zokhazokha, mayi. Kukwera pamwamba pa izo, poyamba pa zonse, ine ndikuganiza za banja ndi za amapindula zikhoza kubweretsa kukwera ake apamtima.

zimayambitsa Common imfa

Indian climber anali wachitsikana, wamphamvu ndi zambili chokwanira. Komabe, iye ayambirira kwambiri zinthu nyengo ndi workloads woipa mtima. Ngakhale daredevils bravest ndithu kuzindikira zimene zichitike m'tsogolomu. Madokotala ndikuuzeni za mwadzidzidzi mtima kumangidwa, sitiroko, mtima arrhythmias, mphumu, khungu tsankho ndi zina mwadzidzidzi wagwa pa anthu matenda wathanzi. A chifukwa chofala imfa ndi edema m'mapapo mwanga chifukwa cha kusowa oxygen. Pachifukwa ichi, chimachitika kutupa kwa ubongo.

imfa ya ndende

Komabe, ngakhale okwera ndi mwayi zokwanira kupewa mavuto a zaumoyo, iwo sayenera kumasuka. Kafukufuku Pavel Fert wa Massachusetts anapeza kuti imfa ambiri amapezeka pa okwera otsika, pa nthawi imene climber osangalala akubwerera kugonjetsa phiri. Euphoria chindiletsa ndende, ambiri ekstremaly kutaya maso, kugwa mu msampha wa fractures ayezi ndi ming'alu.

Mwa anthu amene amafa pa phiri, makamaka lolipiridwa ndi alendo, amaoneka sanamvere mphunzitsi wake. Mu zikhalidwe za hypoxia ndi chilakolako yosalephera kugonjetsa udachitikira akufotokozera kuchepa maganizo a chitetezo. Ena chitunda popanda kotunga zapadera oxygen. Mphunzitsiyo angathe kuuza zofufuzafufuza mountaineer: "Inu pang'onopang'ono kwambiri, muli ndi mwayi kutembenuka ndi kupulumutsa moyo wake." Komabe, anthu ena satero. Likukhalira, osati phiri okwera kuphedwa, iwo nthawi zambiri anasaina imfa yake chilolezo chifukwa cha kupusa zawo.