Mlengi Vetements Demna Gvasalia: yonena, zilandiridwenso ntchito

Mu October chaka chatha, uthenga wa kusintha kwa mtundu kulenga mkulu wa Balenciaga Paris mafashoni chakumene. Ulendo mwadzidzidzi mlengi American Aleksandra Venga ku malo ake anapanga mtundu wotchuka wa utsogoleri mwachangu kuyang'ana m'malo a. Kusankha munthu amene mbiri ya woukira kuti akuphwanya malamulo anakhazikitsa chifukwa mosapitirira adzadabwitsa wa onsewa mu dziko mafashoni mkulu.

Choncho amene ali mlengi, yemwe ankatsogolera zopangidwa wotchuka amakopa chidwi cha zopereka za, kaphatikizidwe mtima ndi khalidwe liti? Zikuoneka kuti mlengi wa kampani yake Vetements Demna Gvasalia amene anachita ntchito zodabwitsa zedi.

Bright chiyambi Chijojiya mlengi

Tate wa mtundu mseru kuchititsa maganizo wosanganiza pakati ogula, ambiri kuona zinachitika lalikulu Cristobal Balenciaga. Chifukwa cha mlengi wamng'ono ndi nyumba wotchuka mafashoni, ndi kuyamba yowala iye anaonetsetsa kuti mobisa mbuye kuyamika ubwenzi wapadera kwa zovala ndi zachilendo tione mafashoni.

Wambiri ya nyenyezi tsogolo la dziko mafashoni

Demna Gvasalia, amene yonena ndi chidwi kwambiri mu mafani ake ambiri, anabadwa mu Georgia zaka 35 zapitazo. Tsogolo mlengi anaona agogo ake nthawi zonse kusintha zinthu anagula mu masitolo. Analota kulenga zovala ngati izo zikanakhala zasintha akazi ndi anawalandira mu kukongola yowala.

Chifukwa cha ntchito ya awisi wayenda kwambiri padziko lonse. Zimakhala yodziwa nyimbo yofanana ndi kupita ku makalabu, iye wonyika mu tsitsi lake mitundu yowala ndi kuonera kuoneka mafani m'njira zosiyana. Mu Antwerp Demna Gvasalia akulowa mafashoni dipatimenti ya Royal Academy of Sciences ndi Zabwino kumaonekera kotero kwakukuru kuti analandira kupereka ntchito menswear mlengi patsogolo maphunziro.

Munthu wodziwa wamng'ono, kukhumba kulenga zovala akazi, ophatikizapo loto zenizeni. Ulaliki wa chopereka anayamikira akatswiri ndi Demna aitanidwa ku Maison Margiela - mtundu French, ozunguza zopereka avant-garde. Mlengi, amene wagwira ntchito kwa zaka zisanu ndi zitatu pa kampaniyo, anati chochitika ichi kwambiri. "Ndaphunzira zambiri, anaona underside zovala ndi zovala Mardzhely anauziridwa kulenga latsopano," - anati wofuna kutchuka Demna Gvasalia.

Zilandiridwenso ntchito mlengi wa mtundu yake

Kenako, anagwira ntchito ndi Louis Vuitton motsogozedwa ndi Marc Jacobs, koma Demna Gvasalia amadziwa kuti mfundo za mtundu mwanaalirenji ndi osiyana maganizo ake za mavalidwe. Kukhumudwa olowa zilandiridwenso, iye akuganiza za kampani yake ndi kutitengera mu 2014 ndi anzake ndi m'bale Vetements, amene anawamasulira kuchokera ku njira French "zovala".

Brand angatifooketsere mafashoni mwambo, nthawi yomweyo ikutchedwa mmphepete. Zikuoneka zodabwitsa kuti zovala ndi buku ndi chachikulu mapewa kwambiri sindimakonda wogula, koma wolemba akuona mndandanda wa akazi amene angayamikire izo kuposa zovala opyola malire.

Wanzeru Demna Gvasalia recycles zinthu zofunika, kuwapanga kulenga. Iye satsatira malamulo muyezo, ndipo akubwera ndi malamulo yake, ntchito mwapadera mu mtundu wake. Mlengi amakhulupirira kuti anthu amakonda kupeza okha, payekha awo ndi kusankha zinthu wotsogola. Kuona kukongola mu chovala chakale, monga mbuye, n'zosavuta, iye akufuna ake opezeka zovala sizikugwirizana ndi chifaniziro cha wokongola.

Mfundo Zina za Vetements ozunguza

Chipinda Cowonetsera ndi mtundu achinyamata Paris, ku dera kuyan'anila za Saint-Denis, ndi gulu ndizo anthu 12, omwe samafuna kuti alengeze okha. Kufunafuna kudzoza mu zinthu zosiyanasiyana Demna Gvasalia amene zovala okondedwa ndi nyenyezi ngati Dzhared Leto, Rihanna ndi Kanye Kumadzulo kwa nyengo zinayi kuli kampani wake asankha mutu wa achinyamata mlengi bwino.

Fashion mtundu ikuchitikira ku malo ambiri zachilendo, monga mu odyera Chinese kapena gulu gay ndi kusankha mlengi anafotokoza rents otsika.

Iye adali tcheru kuyang'ana nkhope latsopano, kufunafuna dongosolo kulikonse, ngakhale pa Intaneti, kusakatula Intaneti.

Vetements anatulukira mtundu zidendene, akufanana mawonekedwe a mbandakucha, nsapato masokosi, zovala za oilcloth ndi kuika mu funso kwambiri tanthauzo la kachitidwe.

zovala kuwasindikiza amagulitsidwa m'masitolo padziko lonse ndipo chinkhoswe mu malonda zochitika m'bale Guram mlengi.

M'chigawo choyamba pa malo wotsogolera kulenga

Ouziridwa ndi mgwirizano ndi a Balenciaga, Gvasalia zochokera mfundo zikuluzikulu za mtunduwu, kuwasakaniza mu masomphenya awo a mumaganiza mafashoni, ndi sinditi adzasinthe mfundo kampaniyo. Demna amaona ntchito yake ndi kulemba wina watsopano mbiri ya mtundu otchuka kwambiri padziko lonse.

M'chigawo choyamba cha zovala akazi wapanga chidwi chachikulu pa omvetsera mlengi kasupe 2016. Otsutsa atamandira ntchito yake kalembedwe chikhalidwe msewu, kuyang'ana iwo masiku kupindika pereinachennye mafashoni nyumba zidindo.

Izi yotentha Demna Gvasalia, amene zosonkhanitsira wakhala maganizo, wakhala anayambitsa malire atsopano a zovala amuna. Iye kusintha malamulo mafashoni nkhondo remake silhouettes wa 40s kuti mumaganiza amakono. Mlengi amakonda nsapato, ndipo anawonjezera kuti iwo zithunzi zonse mu kalembedwe asilikali.

Watsopano zosonkhanitsira Vetements 2016-2017

Komabe, pambuyo udindo wake monga wotsogolera kulenga Gvasalia sinditi ndikusiyeni mtundu chake chotsimikizira zimenezi m'chilimwe, azipereka zosonkhanitsira lotsatira Vetements. The kuyesera kwamakono iye ophatikizana maganizo a anzake. Malinga ndi otsutsa, mzere wake watsopano ndi mgwirizano waukulu. njira kulenga chilengedwe cha zovala nthaŵi zonse amapereka chisangalalo padziko ntchito yatsopano Chijojiya maestro, ndi chopereka wachititsa namondwe wa mikangano mu mabwalo okolomodnyh, koma otsutsa anamuyamikira ozizira mokwanira.

Mlengi experimenter sakufuna dala munthu ndipo sakonda kukonza zisinthe, iye amaona kuti ndi telala wamba, amene angawathandize kwambiri kuposa ena. Mukhoza kukhala ndi maganizo osiyana ndi ntchito za mbuye, koma palibe amene adzakane mphamvu zake mafashoni amakono.