Mallory George ndi chinsinsi chake pamabwera

Zaka 60 zapitazo, pa chimbuzi pa lonse, lomwe likupezeka mu oyeza XVIII atumwi ku Britain, woyamba mapazi anthu anaonekera, ngakhale iye anali ankafuna ambiri atalephera kufika pamwamba. Phiri Everest dzina lake polemekeza kafukufuku Geodetic Survey, osadziwa kuti Chimonko m'dera akukhala Tibet akhala amanenela Chomolungma.

prehistory

Mwamsanga pamene anauzidwa phiri lalitali kwambiri mu dziko, anthu nthawi zonse ankafuna kuti kukwera ake. Ena mapulani analibe likwaniritsidwe, chifukwa boma Nepalese sanapereke chilolezo kuti mukwere phiri lopatulika adzalemekezedwa ndi anthu kumeneko. Izo zinali kokha pa chiyambi cha XX atumwi anayesetsa maulendo kukwera, koma ku mbali Chitibeta. Lililonse pofuna kukwera highs latsopano zakonzedwa apamwamba, ndipo apa mu 1953 pambuyo kuthana ndi mavuto aakulu pamwamba potsiriza amagonjera mtima anthu.

Amene anakwera Everest?

Komabe, si aliyense wagwirizana ndi Baibulo kuti New Zealand ndi okwera Nepali Ndaligonjetsa phiri oopsa, inapha anthu pafupifupi 200. Izo sizinali zoona maganizo zoni woyamba wa imfa kumugonjetsa ndipo anaima pa iye pa mfundo Mellori Dzhordzh, anasowa 1924 pa 3 Everest ulendo. Taganizirani Baibulo, sikukudziŵika, amene lero umalamulira malingaliro a anthu onse okhudzidwa.

Chilakolako chachikulu cha moyo

Mallory anabadwa mu wansembe banja. Ine kupembedza nkhani mnyamata wina Cambridge pambuyo mapeto anakonza monga mphunzitsi pasukulu. Koma chilakolako chachikulu cha moyo wake amakhala adakali kukwera. Achibale ananena kuti Mallory kotero pulakatesi, ngati iye ankadziwa kuti iye anali kuyembekezera ena chitunda amazipanga kovuta. Motentheka odzipereka ku ntchito yake, analemba yochepa nkhani, amene akufotokoza udindo wake. Tsatirani funso lokhudza zimene zimakopa mafani moyo wake pachiswe, iye anavomereza mosabisa: "Kuthana ndi phiri nsonga - ndi mmene luso monga kulemba ndakatulo ndi imene nyimbo. Izo zonse zimachokera mu mtima, chifukwa yamangidwa pa wosadzikonda. "

Maulendowa loyamba

Kumene, Mellori Dzhordzh analakalaka kugonjetsa zovuta koma palibe aliyense njira pamwamba pa Phiri la Everest. Mwamsanga pamene akuphunzira kuyamba kukonzekera chikweza sanazengereze kusiya sukulu ndi wopita ku chosasangalatsa workouts. Maloto kukhala munthu woyamba kuthana kutalika amazipanga ankakolezera chidwi. Atafunsidwa za mtundu wa cholinga, iye amayesetsa chifukwa ati Everest, Dzhordzh Mellori adayankha mwachidule: "Basi chifukwa izo ziri."

zaka 3 pamaso pa tsoka oopsa, iye anawuka kuchokera anamulondolera m'dera kutalika kwa pafupifupi 7000 meters, limene ulendo udzatha. Kugwiritsa ntchito mapu olondola, munthu akufuna kwa chaka chamawa kufika pamwamba. Potsutsana ndi mabotolo mpweya ndi zipangizo zina zapadera, ndi kukwera gulu zinayamba kuwuka kwa kumwamba. Ngakhale 50 digiri chisanu ndi kuluma mphepo, maulendowa amapanga zosatheka bwino chifukwa yapita kwa mamita 1200. Anthu akuvutika mpweya njala ndi ozizira, anapanga weniweni feat.

koopsya kukwera

37 wazaka Mellori Dzhordzh, amene akulota kuti akunde yekha, mu 1924, monga mbali ya ulendo lalikulu akuyamba kukwera, omwe anakhala lomaliza. Atafika msinkhu pafupifupi 8000 meters, gulu chitatha msasa. Kuti wowerenga kumvetsa zimene ndi chimbuzi cha dziko, kupereka mawu a Peter Habeler - climber ndi phiri zimatsogolera munthu sankalimbana nafe kwambiri anafotokoza za mapiri. "Everest - chilombo zoona kuti mosavuta kundipha Ine, komanso anamupha patsogolo pa ena. Izi si pamwamba chikondi - ndi jumble yoopsa miyala amalenga m'mlengalenga oipa kwambiri ".

Mobwerezabwereza anapita Maulendo Dzhordzh Mellori ndi Endryu Irvin, mnyamata wachibwana wophunzira, kupita ku ulalo wa mu njira imene tsidya maluso awo. Lamanzere pamwamba pafupifupi 150 meters, ndi mawu Habeler anali pafupi chimodzimodzi ankhanza imodzi kutalika munthu. Palibe amene akudziwa chimene lingaliro la okwera awa awiri, zipita zone woopsa. Amadziwika kuti atachoka gulu ndi kuona momwe pang'onopang'ono kukwawa thanthwe awiri banga yaing'ono. Panthawi ina, maso ake salinso kusiyanitsa okwera wakuda chithunzi pamaso pake, amangoika anasowa mtambo. Pitani pofunafuna ulendo sakanakhoza kupeza thupi ndi kupeza chifukwa cha zimene zinachitika. Anadzazidwa bwino okwera Mallory, akuguba motsatira njira yomweyo, anasiya pamene udachitikira anali womaliza mamita 100, kuti njira ya palibe.

Chinsinsi cha George Mallory

Everest 150 mamita - kwambiri. Choncho, kutsutsana ndi ikuchitika panopa ngati Mellori Dzhordzh anali Kalanga meters. Anthu amene amakhulupirira kuti climber sanali pamwamba, ankamangidwanso zochitika zinachitika. Mallory, kupeza kuti yolunjika uko, mwina, anaganiza kuzilambalala phiri kupeza nthawi zina mtundu wa ndimeyi. Zikuoneka kuti anthu anakhala nthawi yambiri kufunafuna njira sanali sakupezeka, ndipo inatha mpweya mu zonenepa. Pozindikira kuti mahema mbadwa amakhala linalake okwera kuyesera kubwerera pamaso mdima, koma ndiribe nthawi. Dzhordzh Mellori, thupi lake imapezeka mu zaka 75, anagwa kuchokera phompho, zomwe sanathe kuti akagonjetse. Irwin zotsalira anali sanapeze. Amaganiza kuti thupi lake mazira akanangogwera pansi maulendowa Chinese, kukonza njira kwa mitembo.

Komabe, akatswiri ochokera England, kufufuza mofulumira zachinsinsi, zedi climber adakali pamwamba, anasiya mbendera British ndi chithunzi cha mkazi wake wokondedwa, amene sapezeka mu matumba ake. Koma chikwama ndi zikalata onse anali mu malo.

Tsopano palibe amene anganene motsimikiza zomwe Baibulo ndi lolondola. Chirichonse chimene icho chinali, koma Mallory, kupita kosadziwika, anatsutsa zosatheka ndi kugonjetsa oyenera kwabasi.