Ancient Russia: Zovala. Zovala ku Russia: akazi, amuna, ana

Akatswiri a mbiri yakale osati tinagwirizana momwe kuyang'ana Russian Chisilavo nyengo zovala, ngati pa nthawi imeneyo mafuko moyo makamaka kuchokera njira zamalonda, kawirikawiri mtunda nkhalango ndi kudzipatula. Komabe, pali mfundo kuti zovala m'masiku amenewo anali yosavuta m'malo wonyong'onya. inawo chifukwa cha chakuti kanyumba makampani nsalu analipo pa nthawi imeneyo ndithu nthawi yambiri, pamene panali pafupifupi palibe njira luso kupanga zinthu zovala.

About zovala wakale anakhalabe mudziwe pang'ono

maphunziro Public Ancient Lazaro anthu zovala choyenera kwambiri osiyanasiyana monga momwe kukhudzana ndi anthu ena, anayamba mawonekedwe la chisanu ndi chinayi m'ma AD. Isanafike nthawi imeneyi, deta za maonekedwe a Asilavo ndi kochepa ngati zinthu zovala panthawi imeneyo yopangidwa ndi zisulo zachilengedwe, zatsalira organic amene si kusungidwa kwa nthawi yaitali. Komanso, kumbukirani kuti mu AD 6-9 atumwi ku Chisilavo panali mwambo kuwotcha thupi pamaso manda, kotero mu manda kwakukulukulu zotsala zodzikongoletsera anasungunuka chitsulo kapena zinthu za zovala. Ofukula zina mwayi ochepa pamene iwo, mwachitsanzo, panthawi zofukulidwa mu Old Ladoga anapeza mabwinja a khungu kuti adzabwezeretsa Kuyang'ana kwa magolovesi ndi nsapato ngati, masitonkeni, ankavala makolo athu.

Nkhondo mathalauza yemweyo

Magwero yachilendo olembedwa mpaka 10 m'ma AD, silikukambapo za mmene angapezere Asilavo ndi zovala Russian. Izi zinalembedwa kapena olemba Byzantine, kapena magwero Arab. P. Kesarsky yekhayo amene amatchulidwa mu m'ma chimodzi kuti Asilavo (ku Balkans) kupita ku nkhondo mu mathalauza yemweyo kalembedwe kufupikitsidwa, popanda chofunda kapena malaya pamwamba. Kenako Asilavo anapeza zosinthika latsopano la chinenero, asayansi pamaziko a magwero olembedwa ndi mwayi kudziwa bwino kuyang'ana pa nthawi anthu, osachepera otchuka kwambiri a iwo.

Mafumu ankavala shati

Kodi anthu mu ulamuliro wayani ndi Lazaro wakale? Zovala Prince Svyatoslav Yaroslavovych tikuonera chifaniziro Izbornik 1073, ali odulidwa yosavuta. Ndi yaitali, bondo, shati, amene chinsalu pa malaya pamwamba ndi zipper paphewa. Pa mutu wa chipewa a kalonga, mwina ndi ubweya izo chepetsa pa miyendo pointy nsapato. A m'banja lake, ataimirira pafupi, kuvala malaya womangidwa ndi malamba. Malaya mkazi Svyatoslav pafupifupi pansi, mutu wake mpango. zovala ana pa mwana wamng'ono n'zimene kakang'ono wa wamkulu. Ana Yaroslav kuvala kufanana malaya ndi kolala ndi, zambiri, anali otchedwa "madoko" - m'malo yopapatiza thalauza ndi zingwe pa m'chiuno. Zovala zinthu m'chifanizo utoto mu kamvekedwe pabuka-bulauni.

Zovala anapangidwa pa nsalu ndi

Akatswiri amanena kuti zovala kuwala Kiev Lazaro mu misa anali woyera, kuyambira nthawi ya mbiri isanayambe Asilavo zovala zinthu amapangidwa kuchokera fulakesi ndi hemp ulusi amene anapereka woyera (grayish kapena pamene osakwanira oyeretsa). Kale mu zaka 6-9 mafuko a Kumpoto kwa Russia mukudziwa zomwe ndi nsalu ya mtundu umodzi, ndi kum'mwera anapeza zinthu za thupi mibadwo 9-10, amene anachitira umboni za mwayi ntchito pa nsalu yopingasa.

Kuwonjezera nsalu ndi hemp nsalu, Asilavo mwakhama ntchito ndi ubweya, zotsalira zimene anazipeza n'chodabwitsa m'manda a East. Komanso, chifukwa makhalidwe nyengo ya kutchuka yaikulu anasangalala ubweya zovala. Tailors nthawi kale amatha ulusi pamodzi zikopa kangapo zinthu zazikulu. Kuti "malaya" nkhandwe zikopa nthawi zambiri, zimbalangondo, nkhosa, ndi kutsirizitsa (akalowa) chinapangidwa ndi sable, otter, Beaver, gologolo, weasel, marten. Inde, tsitsi mtengo anayenda mamembala a amazikonda anthu otchuka. Mu Russia, iwo anali angakonze nyama zosiyana ndi khungu (khungu chomera zinthu, etc ..), Choncho zovala zachimuna mu Russia zinaphatikizapo chilolo malamba, magolovesi ndi nsapato chikopa (kuti ena a anthu). Asilavo zambiri ankavala chikopa ku zikopa za ng'ombe kapena mbuzi kuposa kavalo amadzibisa.

Ngakhale mu nyengo yozizira zikuoneka kuti abvale nsapato

Kodi abvale Ancient Lazaro? Zovala yopangidwa ndi zisulo achilengedwe, ambiri a anthu pano mu nyengo yozizira ... wodzilemekeza nsapato bast ndi windings pa miyendo, amene mtundu wamkulu wa nsapato (m'chilimwe ndi ayenera kupita nsapato). ngowe Special kwa kuluka ofukula bast kupeza malo wina Neolithic, kotero zambiri, zitsanzo izi anali Asilavo ndi Asilavo wakale. Lapti Kuzipeka mmene anali kuyembekezera kuchokera ku makungwa a mitengo yosiyanasiyana ndipo anali neiznosostoykimi kwambiri. Pa nthawi ina, chinapezeka kuti munthu amavala nsapato m'nyengo yozizira kwa masiku khumi, ndipo pa nyengo yotentha zokolola - osachepera sabata. Komabe, nsapato ngati anayenda ngakhale Red Army mu 30s kwa zaka za m'ma 20, ndi workpiece bast zolinga asilikali agwira ndi komiti yapadera - "Chekvolap".

M'kachisi - yekha zovala Asilavo!

Asilavo, limene anthu Russia wakale (zovala ndi nsapato kuti musakhale amasiyana osiyanasiyana kwambiri), koma mwaulemu zovala zake yosavuta. Mwachitsanzo, mu "Mawu Danily Zatochnika" ananena kuti "zingakhale bwino taona phazi lake lychenitse (bast) kwanu kuposa mu mdima nsapato yofiira Boyarsky Dvor". Ndipo mtsogoleri wa Czech Asilavo yokha choona chodziwika kuti sanalole kuti pa phwando pambuyo German Mfumu Dagobert, mpaka iye anasintha mu zovala Asilavo. Tsoka chomwecho anachitika woimira bishopu, German Gerimanna kuti pamaso kukaona kachisi m'tauni ya Triglav tsitsi lanu liimirire, anasintha mu chofunda Asilavo ndi chipewa (1124 BC. E.).

Akazi akhaafuna zodzikongoletsera

Za izo zinkawoneka ngati zovala akazi ku Russia pa chiyambi cha kubadwa kwa statehood Russian, akatswiri zimawavuta kunena. Iwo ankadziwa kuti kalembedwe si wosiyana kwambiri ndi malaya anthu, koma mwina molemera kwambiri nsalu ndi wautali. Pa mutu akazi anali prototypes wa corbel, mphete zosatha pa khosi - zambiri buluu kapena zobiriwira galasi mikanda. Pasanathe zofanana zibangili, mphete. M'nyengo yozizira, madona anavala malaya ubweya ndi capes ndi zingwe, monga zovala - "ponyavy" kuti kuteteza thupi m'munsi mmbuyo ndi mbali. pamaso pawo linalembedwa mu 11 AD m'ma.

Mphamvu ya limati zina

Monga kulankhula osauka pakati pa maiko ena ndiponso madera a Wamasiku Lazaro, ndi Asilavo zovala anayamba osiyanasiyana ndi nsalu yatsopano, masitayilo zojambula ndi gulu la anthu ku zigawo zosiyana. Mwachitsanzo, mu chisanadze Mongolian Russia (zaka 10-13) Maonekedwe Russian kudziwa zambiri Byzantine zinagwirizana ndi miyambo yawo yaitali loyenda malaya, malaya ndi clasps. Ndipo anthu wamba, akazi makamaka, mumaganiza izi anatsindika "thewera" - chidutswa yosavuta nsalu, apangidwe mu theka, ndi dzenje kwa mutu, amene anavala malaya zofunika m'chiwuno (a matabwa mbali pa thewera sanali). Pa maholide madona anali "navershniki" nsalu yopeta, amene thewera ndi chobvalidwa pa shati kapena malaya ndi ankaimira popanda lamba ndi manja lonse. Pafupifupi zovala za Kievan Lazaro anali ankavala pa mutu komanso anali ndi kolala yake (zinali zabodza).

Zovala Mongol ankhondo

Chitata Mongol kuwukira anasiya ngongole zina m'munda wa chikhalidwe chuma, zomwe zimakhudza mmene zimene anali zovala mu Russia m'nthawi yotsatira. zinthu zambiri zovala asilikali Mongolian anali pa amuna Russian, kuphatikizapo nsapato ndi mwake masitonkeni ndi earflaps chipewa, chida cha zigawo ziwiri za ubweya (kunja ndi mkati), malaya bloomers a, skullcap (tafi), malamba, malamba ndi ena.

zovala zosiyanasiyana kuchokera zovala Moscow Lazaro Kievan Lazaro?

Zovala za m'ma 15 pamene goli Chitata Mongol unagonjetsedwa ndi Russia anakhala ndi Moscow ukulu, izo zasintha malinga ndi nyengo, koma makamaka kwa boyars, olemekezeka, m'tauni. Mu nthawi imeneyi, zida akuzisunga mbali yaikulu ya suti ya Kievan Lazaro - malaya ndi madoko amuna neotreznoy kudula zinthu zovala, yaitali, koma pali zizindikiro za mafashoni atsopano. Zikuphatikizapo, makamaka, akhoza zimachitika pamaso pa cloakrooms zovala kupeta. Mu akazi, unzips pansi kwa amuna - kuchokera mchiuno ndi unaperekedwa koyamba clasp "mbuyo mwa" zikhomo hinge. Kenako anapanga njira yoyenera kuchokera pansi pamwamba lamanzere, chifukwa mayiko fasteners zimenezi kwa nkhondo amuna saber.

manja yabodza komanso nsalu golidi

Mozungulira nthawi imeneyi, pali zinthu sanali zinchito mu zovala za amazikonda anthu otchuka. Zikuphatikizapo Mipikisano chimango kungomanga makolala ndi manja, amene Mwachitsanzo pa ohabne, womangidwa pa nsana, kugogomeza mfundo yakuti mwini zovala si zikugwira ntchito yakalavulagaga. Anthu olemera akhoza kuvala zigawo zingapo za zovala, ngakhale mu nyengo otentha. Pa yemweyo zinthu zovala anali zambiri kwathunthu yomatidwa kutsekedwa kwa. Yotsirizira anatsogolera chakuti zovala zinali zambiri zinthu mlingo zodzikongoletsera, kuphatikizapo chokongoletsera ngale, miyala yamtengo wapatali, nsalu ndi golide ndi waya siliva, mabatani chopangidwa ndi golide, siliva, enamel ndi miyala yamtengo wapatali.

Zinali Russian zovala za nthawi ndi zinthu zimene mwina kutsindika ena kapena katundu wina wa mawonekedwe a. Zikuphatikizapo m'chiuno thumba chikwama ( "Kalita"), chomwe asirikali anali pa m'chiuno ndi chithunzi ang'ono ndi boyars - pa m'chiuno ndi alipo kwambiri zovala, chifukwa chidzalo cha chilengedwe ofunika wapamwambatu monga chizindikiro cha moyo wonse.

Zikuwoneka ngati avale nthawi ana a Moscow Russia - sakudziwika. Ambiri mwina, izo zinali kachiwiri buku wosalira wa zitsanzo wamkulu. Koma mafashoni madona 'zitsanzo nthawi kuti anauziridwa ojambula zithunzi zambiri kulenga katswiri wokongola (Korovin, Repin, Surikov). Pa mtima wa zovala lonse kachiwiri kuyala malaya, anawonjezera downwards chifukwa wedges ndi (m'lifupi mwake kufika pansi mpaka mamita 6!). Linapangidwa wa thonje kapena silika nsalu (anthu wamba - kachiwiri ku nyumba) ndi zinapezedwa khosi.

Yapamwamba suti ... masekeli pa makilogalamu 15

Pa malaya anali ankavala sundress Brightcloth nsalu nsalu ndi ofukula lamizeremizere pakati, yomwe imachitika pa yopapatiza zambiri womangidwa ndi zomangira ndi pansi bere. zovala Top akazi cha m'ma 16, Russia anayimiridwa mwa "dushegreya" nsalu zokongola zonse imachitikanso pa mapewa zomangira. Mu masiku a Moscow Russia madona anapitiriza kuvala zovala zakale zinthu -. Masiketi, thewera, thewera, etc. oimira mabanja olemera ankavala "Letnik", nthawi zambiri ndi mkanda Beaver kolala, telogreyu ubweya. Kuyambira zipewa kutchuka ankakonda "yamba" - yokutidwa ndi nsalu Manga ndi kokoshnik m'nyengo yozizira - kapu ndi kokha. zovala noblewoman anali pafupi nthawi zonse nepritalennymi sewn kwa nsalu mtengo ndi embroideries ambiri, ndipo thupi lawo angafikire ku makilogalamu 15. Mu dona zovala anali malo amodzi, mmene mwina yaikulu chithunzi womwe ndi mafashoni ndi malamulo a makhalidwe a nthawi.

zovala m'ma 17 ku Russia chinali ngati zovala zaka zam'mbuyo, koma panali ena zigawo latsopano. Zikuphatikizapo adalowa manja otchuka lonse, puckered pa dzanja mu chovala akazi, ambiri shushunov - sundresses, kumene kumbuyo sewn yabodza manja awiri yaitali. Akatswiri a mbiri yakale kuti kuyambira m'zaka za m'ma 17 anadza mafashoni yokongola Mzere Betelehemu sundress ndipo mofulumira wake kuchokera kwa nsalu kutsogolo. mafashoni okhonda Lazaro nthawi imeneyi nkhawa kutchuka pang'ono anasangalala okha nsalu yatsopano ndi zinthu payekha, monga malaya Polish. Tikumbukenso kuti anthu Chirasha mwachangu anatsutsa oyamba a Peter Wamkulu m'zaka za m'ma 18, "German" mafashoni, monga momwe zovala, amakonzera tsitsi ndi makhalidwe sagwirizana ndi njira yakale ya akavalidwe zovala Russian.