"Monga London zokoma atavala": tanthauzo la mawu Pushkin

Kuyambira ndili mwana wake ndipo masiku kusukulu, tiyenera kukumbukira kuti ngwazi ya Pushkin a Eugene Onegin anali admirer a Adam Smith ndi mosamalitsa ankaganizira kwambiri za kukongola la misomali pa nthawi yomweyo iye komanso mapulaneti zinalengedwa atavala monga wokondedwa wake. Komabe, si onse akadali kumvetsa tanthauzo la mawu oti "monga London zokoma akuvala." Chifukwa "wokondedwa" anali chitsanzo cha kukongola mwamuna? Kodi awa munthu pedantic? Tiyeni kudya kutsogolo kwa mtima wa England, malemu XVIII atumwi, ndipo ife kumvetsetsa amene ali wokondedwa.

London zokoma - ndani?

Zokoma - ichi ndi mbiri anawagwiritsa ntchito pofotokoza munthu amene amachita chidwi chapadera maonekedwe awo. Zokoma, ngati umunthu, ndi osiyana kwambiri ndi anthu ena a anthu, maonekedwe ake komanso makhalidwe: iye woyengedwa, iye anali kupanga zina chizolowezi mumasangalala nawo, iwo ali m'njira yakeyake pedant, iye amakonda kuonera kuima pamaso galasi, osasamala ndi cocky. Pakuti dandyism anabadwa kumapeto a XVIII atumwi ku England poyankha ntchito mopitirira muyezo anthu makalasi opeza (a bourgeoisie). London zokoma - woimira opeza, amene amafuna kukhala moyo lolemera.

Kodi zikutanthauza dandyism?

Kuyambira izi ife titha kumvetsetsa kuti dandyism - ichi ndi choyera ndale Zionetsero, zomwe zayambika mu XVIII atumwi ku UK ndi chinali kuloŵedwa m'malo ndi "American utasintha" (zochitika za ndale mu madera British a North America 1775-1779, mathero mapangidwe USA). Popeza osayenera awa, panache a mtundu umenewu angathe kuonedwa monga pofuna zionetsero potsutsana ndi kukhazikika kwa "equalization" mfundo ndi zinthu nostalgic kutsatira mfundo ang'onoang'ono ndi chisanadze mafakitale.

Tinayamba ndi improvisation

Fashion mumaganiza otchedwa zokoma anafunsa m'zaka makumi lotsiriza la zaka za m'ma 18. pali zambiri nkhani zoseketsa mu mbiri ndi mabuku a mmene bwino kachitidwe dandyism. Mmodzi wa awa ali odzipereka kwa wokondedwa wowopsa - Ambuye Spencer (nthumwi yaikulu kwambiri banja British lolemera). Tsiku lina, kupumula mu m'banja, mwangozi anatentha wake odula-michira kwa malaya ake mosamala anayandikira moto woyaka. Popanda kuganiza, Ambuye kudula iwo ndi kupitiriza kusangalala. Choncho, mtundu watsopano wa outerwear - malaya Ndikuchepetsa popanda pansi "Spencer." Kwa kanthawi, anthu ankavala "yowala Spencer" pansi zida buluu kapena malaya, ndipo ankaona yapamwamba. Koma posakhalitsa odula adakhala otchuka pakati pa akazi, ndipo nawonso anayamba kuvala ilo.

Zokoma London: ndinu ndani? Kodi kuvala?

Pa chiyambi cha m'ma XIX dandyism anthu anayamba kukhala mofulumira. "Wokondedwa London" atavala chipangizo komanso yokongola, mu mawu - ". Chikuni" zokoma mfundo kugona chakuti maonekedwe sayenera manyazi. Osasamalira kuyenda ndi chisomo cha kamodzi olekanitsidwa munthu m'khamulo. Amuna, zikuoneka, atavala modzichepetsa ndi elegantly, koma maonekedwe awo adamfunsa lalikulu ndalama outlay. Zokoma London - ndi yapamwamba kwambiri pa nthumwi wamwamuna wa anthu!

Tiyeni tione chitsanzo ndi chitsimikiziro ndi kagawo wina ku buku vesi "Eugene Onegin" zapamwamba Russian:

"... Izi Onegin anga pa zazikulu;
tsitsi lake ndi zamakono;
Atavala ngati zokoma mu London ... "

chithunzi ichi salinso ankafuna zokoma ndi zokongoletsa zosiyana variegated ndi Chalk. Tsopano amuna akuda nkhawa khalidwe la odulidwa, amene ayenera kukhala abwino. Michira ndi zamphepo anali mbali yaikulu ya zovala tsiku wamwamuna, adasoka nsalu apamwamba. chovala changa anasankhidwa ndi mfundo: munthu madzulo ankavala zovala za mtundu mdima (wakuda kapena buluu), ndipo masana - kuwala (zambiri imvi).

magawo awiri okha fano mwamuna akhoza kukhala wowala mtundu - ichi jekete ndi tayi, iwo anasankhidwa mosamala kwambiri ndi mwachikondi. Izi zokoma anakhulupirira kuti nkhani yaikulu chifaniziro chawo ndi chovala kuti ali ndi mwangwiro zikugwirizana wonse mtundu chiwembu ndi suti kukhala linapangidwira kwambiri. Pakati olemera zokoma anaganiza kusonkhanitsa deta lalikulu zamphepo ya kapangidwe osiyana, kudula ndi mtundu (mmodzi wa iwo anali wotchuka English Wolemba wina ndi novelist Oskar Uayld). Chinthu chotsiriza pa njira wangwiro kusankha fano yabwino tayi (kapena cravat), amene ayenera womangidwa mu njira ambiri kwabasi.

Chimango ankaona khalidwe lalikulu la fanizo la "wokondedwa"

The luso la zingwe tayi wowerengeredwa kuposa chilichonse. wokondedwa uyu (London) Izi isiyana ndi nthumwi wamba a anthu a. Creative ndi wakhama mfundo ayesedwa pamene lingaliro limodzi fano. Mwangwiro knotted tayi mbali zosavuta chosasamala mfundo ndi anafanana ndi improvisation mwamsanga, koma inapatulidwa ndi yambiri ya nthawi. Chochitachi chapeza kutchuka chotero kuti kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma XIX amadzipereka mabuku lonse kanthu momwe mwaluso zomangira tayi kapena cravat. Mmodzi mwa olemba anali Honoré de Balzac (French wolemba, anayambitsa Kuzindikira mabuku European), amene 1830 analemba buku lotchedwa "Treatise pa moyo kaso."

Malamulo ndi zokhumba wa oimira "dandyism"

Choyamba kalasi zokoma anakwiyanso Moody ndi chabe umunthu. njira lolemera kusankha zovala nazo zochuluka za malamulo. oyimira owona "dandyism" amaona kuti ndi khalidwe loipa kuti anavala suti, zachilendo amene ali zikuchepa kuwoneka. Popewa izi, iwo anapatsidwa kuvala malaya awo ndi zovala zosalowa atumiki kuvala patapita kanthawi wakhala pang'ono shabby ndi olema. Nthawi zina zovala mwapadera napukuta zinthu ndi pamalo abrasive - akhakula sandpaper kapena galasi. London wokondedwa, zithunzi ndi mafano amene anapereka m'munsimu, nthawi zonse kuganizira za maonekedwe awo.

chidwi linaperekedwa kwa ukhondo. Zovala inayenera kukhala oyera ndi wabwino kununkhiza. Malaya ndi magolovesi chofunika chisamaliro kusamala kwambiri ndi molemekeza. Mu zokoma zoona, pali ulamuliro osalembedwa: sabata munthu ayenera kusintha malaya za makumi awiri, makumi atatu mipango, mitundu khumi la biriwita, zikulumikizana ndi oposa makumi atatu wopandamalire nambala ya masokosi ndi zovala zosalowa.