Yapamwamba Twill nsalu: zinsinsi za kupanga ndi ntchito mbali

Twill - dzina wamkulu wa gulu la zimakhala kuti ndi maonekedwe khalidwe ndi katundu zofanana ogula. Choyamba, n'zosavuta ndi wokoma zowawa chuma opendekera yokhotakhota ndi yochepa kugona. Pali njira yodalirika kusiyanitsa kwa nsalu zina twill: ndikofunikira kuyang'ana pa njira pang'ono kuti khalidwe chitsanzo opendekera ndi kuoneka bwino.

A mbiri pang'ono

Kodi ndi liti pamene nthawi koyamba twill (twill), silidziŵika. Kungotchula cha izi zimapezeka m'buku autobiographical "Kukumbukira Windsor", lolembedwa ndi English Mfumu Edward VIII. Malinga ndi kuwauza nkhani azithunzithunzi, za 1830 amalonda London anatumizidwa m'tauni Scottish wa Hawick ipitirirabe twill nsalu otchedwa wogulitsa Tweels. Kusanthula kalata, sasamala England anaganiza kuti tikulankhula Tweed nsalu , amene analandira dzina la mtsinje eponymous, moyenda kupyolera makampani anayamba nsalu m'chigawochi.

Anatumiza twill nsalu Anthu ambiri kulemberapo ndi wogulitsidwa mtundu dzina "tweed". Dzina lomweli ndipo munakhala kuseri kwa icho, ndi chikhalidwe zolakwa akadali akusocheretsa anthu ambiri amene si bwino mfundo zina zabwino zipangizo.

Maonekedwe ndi njira kupanga

Modern twill nsalu ndi chonyezimira ndi zofewa kuti zowawa twill. The original adalira chitukuko aumbike mwa kusuntha chitsanzo yokhotakhota pa ulusi umodzi iliyonse mayikidwe weft. opendekera malangizo akhoza kukhala bwino (zabwino) kapena kumanzere (zoipa). Kawirikawiri nsalu kumanja opendekera. Mwachitsanzo, twill yokhotakhota kwa jinzi kutulutsa dzanja lamanja twill (RHT) kapena "herringbone".

Twill yokhotakhota kubwereza ndondomeko mwina ndi chingwe atatu kapena kuposa. Malinga ndi kuchuluka, kachulukidwe ndi mtundu wa yarns ntchito kupangira zinthu ndi zimasiyanasiyana m'lifupi mphonje ndi convexity pa izo. ndi pafupifupi losaoneka choncho twill zingakhale woonda kwambiri pa zimakhala ndi poyambira kukambirana pang'ono. Kawirikawiri amapangidwa ulusi wosanganiza zochokera thonje. Ndicho chimene anapanga wotchuka nsalu twill, bafuta, omwe tsopano ankagwiritsa ntchito kupanga nsalu.

The apamwamba a poyambira kukambirana, ndi momveka kwambiri kumakhaladi otukukira kunja ndi Betelehemu. Pa nthawi yomweyo, osalimba a twill ndi yafupika Komabe, mwina twill yokhotakhota ntchito kwambiri wandiweyani nsalu mapeyala. Ambiri a mitundu zake tweed ndi gabardine zochita.

kapangidwe

nsalu Twill, ikulongosola za amene angapezeke mu buku lililonse pa zipangizo, choyamba chopangidwa yekha thonje kapena ubweya. Komanso kusintha katundu ntchito, opanga ambiri anayamba kuwonjezera CHIKWANGWANI ake constituent ndi spandex. Pang'onopang'ono, chiwerengero cha ulusi kupanga m'nkhaniyo kuchuluka kwa atatu alionse awiri. Ichi ndi chifukwa chake twill chi ndi wosanganiza nsalu, kupanga ku 30 kuti 65% poliyesitala.

katundu

Twill nsalu ndi imodzi mwa zipangizo zochepa umene uli wandiweyani komanso chinsalu. Chifukwa filaments mkulu osalimba twill ali durability wabwino ndi kuvala kukana bwino, kutetezedwa ku fumbi. Komanso, amakhala ndi nambala ya katundu zabwino, akuti:

• nkomwe akuzengereza;
• Sayambitsa thupi lawo siligwirizana pokhudzana ndi khungu;
• kugonjetsedwa ndi chinyezi;
• chabwino mpweya permeability;
• Zilibe kutambasula pa washings zonse;
• osati olumala amagwira mawonekedwe ake bwino;
• uphwetsa msanga.

twill nsalu amakhala okongola osati maonekedwe ndi katundu mkulu wa ogula komanso zosiyanasiyana mitundu. Nthawi zambiri kubala twill yofiira. Pankhaniyi, mbali kutsogolo ali ndi kutchulidwa mikwingwirima opendekera wa widths osiyana. akuphatikizapo wandiweyani amapereka mkulu khalidwe kudetsa ndipo walola yaitali twill mitundu omveka pa ntchito.

Zovala ndi nkhani ya twill

Nthawi zambiri twill kusoka amuna ndi akazi mathalauza, masiketi ndi zamphepo. Malingaliro ena ake ntchito kupanga madiresi olimba akazi. Zonsezi amadziŵika twill anyonga maonekedwe, choncho kawirikawiri amagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati zovala tsiku ndi tsiku kapena ofesi.

zamphepo opepuka ndi raincoats zambiri sewn kwa zinthu ndi madzi sangalowe, amene amalola kuti musunge mawonekedwe kwa nthawi yaitali. Twill kawirikawiri amagwiritsidwa ntchito posoka mitundu yonse ya yunifolomu ndi zovala zapadera kuchuluka mphamvu. Mwachitsanzo, mu Soviet Union, yunifolomu mkulu wa kutsogolo zonse yekha kwa gabardine, ndiwo mtundu wa twill.

Nsalu twill, ndemanga zimene zimaonetsa ngati chuma avale zosagwira, chimagwiritsidwa ntchito kupanga ndi kutsirizitsa kwa mipando upholstered. Mphamvu ndi khwinya kukana komanso chinachititsa Baibulo latsopano ntchito twill lero iwo udzabala kwamakono matumba mlengi.