Silika Kupanga katundu: Akale ndi Ano

Kusamvana pamene ndondomeko kupanga silika wakhala anayamba, mpaka lero. Komabe, zokumbidwa pansi ku China ali Ndipotu, akhoza kuthetsa nkhani imeneyi - zidutswa minofu, anatulukira mu 1958 ku Province Shandong, kum'mawa China, ndi dziko yakale silika katundu. Tsopano silika akutchedwa "Mfumu minofu" ndi kuupanga kukhala zosiyanasiyana mitundu, ndi chofunika kwambiri komanso chamtengo - zakuthupi achilengedwe, ndi inextricably zogwirizana ndi mbiri ndi chikhalidwe cha lakumwamba Ufumu.

Bakuman mkazi mfumu

Silika kupanga mu China ali zaka zoposa 6000. Mbiri ya nsalu izi zazikulu yokutidwa ndi nthano. Malinga ndi mmodzi wa iwo, mkazi wa Yellow Mfumu Huang Di anali atakhala pansi pa mtengo mabulosi ndi kumwa tiyi pamene kapu yake pansi mpira woyera - Gulugufe. mkazi wokondedwa kusinkhasinkha zochitika zosiyanasiyana ndipo anaona mpira wa fluffy woyera ulusi limapezeka wangwiro. Mphepo ulusi pa chala, mkazi mfumu anazindikira kuti ulusi akhoza ntchito kulenga nsalu ndi. Pamene iye anayamba kukula silkworms malamulo mwachindunji.

Kenako China kupangidwa ndi nsalu wosazindikira, kenako kupanga silika ku China wakale mu nthawi ya Mafumu Shang mu XVI m'ma BC. e. anafika mlingo wokweretsa.

Pansi ululu wa imfa: chinsinsi cha ulimi wa weavers Chinese

ambuye Chinese luso lake anali mobisa kwa zaka zoposera zikwi. Chinsinsi kupanga silika ku dziko wakale wakhala zikasungidwa kwambiri - m'mbiri ya anthu, anali mmodzi wa kutetezedwa "zinsinsi malonda." Chiletso cha katundu wa amakhala mphutsi, cocoons, mabulosi mbewu anachita woyenera kuphedwa.

Ngakhale masiku amenewo tinali ndi kubvala bwino mu silika mikanjo mafumu okha ndi kudziwa chikhalidwe cha sericulture ndi filature anafalikira mofulumira China ndiponso nsalu anagulidwa ndi oimira gulu la pakati ndiponso osauka.

Nsalu zabwino kwambiri ndi zovala ankadziwika kuti zabwino kwambiri ndi ntchito zabwino. Koma palibe kudziletsa, palibe chilango sanasiye ukulu wa silika ku mayiko ena.

The Great silika Road

Silika mankhwala akhala mbali zofunika kwambiri pa malonda yachilendo ya Chinese Ufumu. nsalu zamtengo wapatali anabweretsedwa ku Europe mwa silika Road. Katundu poyendetsedwa mapiri ndi zipululu, ngamila, abulu, ndi vuto lililonse sanasiye makamu kwambiri othodwa - katundu wofunika analonjeza ndalama zambiri ndithu.

The Great silika Road anadutsa Asia ndi Ulaya, yolumikiza miyoyo ndi makhalidwe a anthu osiyanasiyana. Linayamba Yellow Mtsinje Valley, kudutsa dera la kumadzulo kwa Wall Wamkulu wa China ku Lake Issyk-Kul. Kenako, mafoloko m'njira kumpoto ndi kumwera: msewu kum'mwera zinachititsa kuti Ferghana, Samarkand, Iraq, Iran, Syria ndi nyanja ya Mediterranean, ndi kumpoto diverged m'zigawo ziwiri - wina ankapita ku Central Asia, ndi lachiwiri pa malire m'munsi mwa Syr Darya Mtsinje mu West Kazakhstan , ndipo skirting kumpoto, kum'mawa kwa nyanja Black ku Ulaya. The utali wonse wa Wamkulu silika Road anali makilomita oposa 7000.

Popeza silika kupanga anaonekera Korea, ndiye mu Japan, India, ndipo potsiriza, mu mayiko a ku Ulaya ndi Ufumu wa Chiroma. Kwa zaka zambiri, silika Road inali mfundo zenizeni za malonda padziko lonse mu kuchitapo. Ankadutsa za silika Road analenga kwa zaka. "Lamba lina msewu umodzi" - lingaliro ndi zamakono pa nthawiyo: mu XXI m'ma amapangitsira mfundo China kwa revitalize ndi silika Road ndi ndalama ku misewu, mkulu-liwiro njanji ndi madoko, omwe amaonetsetsa dzuwa la zapansi kupanga mu zone onse oyandikana.

Pa silika Road angapezeke waukulu owonetsera zakale silika dziko mu Hangzhou. Lili chiwerengero chachikulu cha mankhwala wapadera ndi makombo wakale achepetse webs ndi mibadwo yosiyanasiyana.

NKHANI kupanga silika

Ngakhale kupanga silika ku China wakale anali mosamalitsa wachinsinsi, malinga ndi nthano, amonke Aroma anakwanitsa mozembetsa amakhala cocoons ku likulu la Ufumu wa Byzantium, Constantinople. Iwo wakhala ankachitika pa yachifumu cocoonery (chipinda kwa kuswana mphutsi za amakhala ndi) ndi winders anakhazikitsa. Zamgululi anali mtengo lowoneka - ndipo ichi ndi chifukwa zovuta ndi Mipikisano gawo ndondomeko yopangira filaments kenako nsalu yotsirizidwa.

Kuswana kwa silkworms ndi kupanga silika kumafuna tcheru, ntchito mwakhama ndi polojekiti mosamala.

Magawo chachikulu cha ulimi

Ngati ife kufotokoza yopanga silika lalifupi, adzakhala ndi ndondomeko izi. Gulugufe amakhala pamoyo wawo, amene kumatenga kwa masiku 4 mpaka 6, anagona pafupi 500 mazira. Mphutsi kudyetsa masamba a mabulosi, ali ndi chilakolako chachikulu, kulemera kumawonjezera kwambiri. Patsogolo mbozi mphutsi anazungulira okha ndi chinthu chimene opangidwa ndi zopangitsa zawo zapadela. Poyamba ndi ziwiri zoonda silky, kulimbitsa mu mlengalenga. Pasanapite padziko amalondola anapanga wandiweyani filament maukonde. Akuika chimango Gulugufe, mbozi amasuntha ku likulu lake ndi pang'onopang'ono kupanga penti - woyera fluffy mpira.

Patapita masiku 8-9, mphutsi zimawononga, ndiponso cocoons choviikidwa mu madzi otentha kupeza timafupa. kutalika kungakhale kuchokera mamita 400 1000 ndi makulidwe a 10-12 microns. Zingapo zopotoka mwawo amakhala - iyo yayiwisi. Kenako, thonje chifukwa ali n'kukhala nsalu. Kuvuta yodalirika minofu ndi yofunika: chobvala wamkazi limatenga 630 cocoons.

The pofuna kukwaniritsa luso Chinese

The thonje chifukwa anayenera kuti chilonda pa spool a. Shelkokrutilnye woyamba anatulukira gudumu ngakhale pa Mafumu Ming. Mu XVIII atumwi Jiangsu ambuye opangidwa makina, imene magudumu lotengeka pansi, motero kuwonjezeka zokolola.

Ndiye makina kupanga Mipikisano wachikuda nsalu krupnouzornoy analengedwa, amene anali pofuna kukwaniritsa luso. Chinese silika nsomba zinali zambiri odzipereka European - makina choyamba, tkavshy silika maliboni, anaonekera mu Germany kokha m'zaka XVI. Kufunika kwa nsalu Zaveleveti wamkulu mkati China ndi kuzungulira dziko. Pitirizani kusintha silika kupanga mechanization - mbiri ya nsalu izi kotheratu ndi zomwe zosinthira nsalu.

Filature ndi kuluka: Akale ndi Ano

M'nthawi ya mafakitale wa XIX atumwi panali kuchepa makampani European silika. Wachiwiri "silika ufumu" pambuyo China anakhala Japan. Cheap Japanese silika, makamaka chifukwa cha kutsegula kwa Suez Canal, anali mmodzi mwa zifukwa zambiri kuchepetsa ndalama okwana izo. Komanso, zikamera ulusi kupanga wabwera yamezedwa mu kupanga zinthu monga masitonkeni ndi parachutes.

Awiri dziko nkhondo linasokonekera mwa kundipatsako kwa zipangizo ku Japan ndi makampani silika European anali pa amaima. Koma kumayambiriro 50 ntchentche wa XX atumwi ku Japan, silika kupanga nachiritsidwa, patsogolo khalidwe la zipangizo. Japan, pamodzi ndi China Anakhalabe a alimi a dziko kutsogolera za silika yaiwisi, ndipo mochitika chokha n'chimene amagulitsa kwa 1970 ndi.

China pang'ono ndi pang'ono rethought malo ake monga mtsogoleri dziko kupanga silika ndi amagulitsa thonje yaiwisi, nawatsimikizira kuti mbiri ya silika motere mfundo zake boomerang. Today limapanga 125 zikwi matani silika mu dziko. Pafupifupi zigawo ziwiri mwa zitatu izi China katundu kupanga. akuluakulu opanga ena - India, Japan, Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Uzbekistan ndi Brazil. The United States ndi importer waukulu wa mankhwala silika.

The katundu wa nsalu zachilengedwe

Nkhani anapanga za silika achilengedwe akhale chonyezimira ndi zofewa, ndi mtundu - yunifolomu. Best malo kugula silika ku China - mu Suzhou, Hangzhou ndi Shanghai lonse zamalonda anatengerapo mwayi amalonda kukonza maulendo silika dziko lino.

Kugula mankhwala anapanga za silika zachilengedwe, tiyenera kuziganizira:

• mankhwala silika amafuna m'manja;
• Madontho pa katundu silika ayenera mofulumira chinazilala m'madzi ozizira ndi detergent ofatsa;
• pambuyo kutsuka ayenera kukhala rinsing mokwanira ndi kuyanika mankhwala wofatsa;
• chitsulo Zovala zopangidwa ndi silika ayenera kukhala pa kutentha otsika (umaonekera mwapadera pa zitsulo za);
• mankhwala woyengeka kapena kukhala ndi mtundu kusindikiza ndi bwino kupereka kwa okonza youma;
• Kusunga mankhwala mu nkhani yabwino (osati pulasitiki) ndi kuchoka kwa dzuwa.

Compliance ndi nsonga yosavuta kudzakuthandizani kalekale kusunga yowala zapamwamba zinthu zovala ndi zinthu anapereka mwachibadwa.

Rayon: mbali ndi kusiyana

Kumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma XIX, poyamba anaonekera silika yokumba, kupanga wake wakhala kusintha kwa mapadi CHIKWANGWANI. . nsalu amatchedwa viscose.

Amapanga ndi kupanga mitundu ya nsalu Zaveleveti ndi luster wapadera, iwo yosalala ndi cholimba. Kodi kusiyanitsa zachilengedwe ku minofu yokumba? Nthawi zambiri msika mungagule yabodza pa mtengo.

Naŵa nsonga pa choti posankha nsalu ndi:

• zinthu zachilengedwe wofewa ndi ofunda, mosiyana yokumba, kuzizira ndi zochepa zofewa;
• masoka nsalu pang'ono rumpled, ankangodzigwera yokumba mphamvu;
• minofu zachilengedwe mokoma kuwala ndi shimmer, yokumba - ndi luster lakuthwa;
• ovutika mapeto a filament yokumba ngati burashi kuti kufwanyulira ulusi, ndi masoka - mu mtolo wa munthu mini-ulusi;
• yonyowa filament rayon akuswa mosavuta kuposa youma;
• njira ya moto filament sangathe nthawi zonse ntchito, koma ndi odalirika kwambiri: Natural ulusi ndi sintered mu clump wandiweyani, zakanthawi ndipo fungo la moto tsitsi ndi amayaka yokumba mpaka mapeto, kupanga fungo la moto synthetics;
• Amapanga ukonde sakubwerera, mosiyana ndi masoka;
• rayon pafupifupi zokha dzuwa, ndi minofu zachilengedwe pa nthawi, kutaya mtundu ndi kutha.

Silika angatchedwe mankhwala wapadera kuti chatifika kuyambira kale, popanda kutaya kukongola ndi kufunika. Fashion nyumba padziko lonse - Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino ndi ena kulenga zosonkhanitsira zochokera silika zachilengedwe, akondwera ndi connoisseurs chipangizo oona kukongola mbali watsopano wa khalidwe zakuthupi - mphatso ya chilengedwe kuti munthu mwini.