Kumutsatira conical siketi: chitsanzo, kujambula ndi mbali

Posachedwapa, ndi zogwirizana kwambiri mu mawonekedwe kuti "Pyonsene watsopano - zikunenedwa bwino aiwala akale". Okonza ayamba kuika pa mafashoni amasonyeza, umene unali wotchuka mu '70s,' 80s ndi '90s m'ma olaula, complementing ndi osakaniza mumaganiza latsopano. Kotero tsopano, madona sangakwanitse kufotokoza kuganiza ngati kuli kotheka. Kuphatikiza zachilendo nsalu ndi masitayilo, ndi kufika ambiri kaphatikizidwe zidutswa zosiyanasiyana za zovala - zonsezi kuyang'ana yoyenera pa misewu ya mzinda wamakono. Makamaka zaphindu lidzaonekera zinthu za kamangidwe anu anyezi, ngakhale pang'ono crosslinked inu, inu simudzakhala kusochera m'mwinjimo.

Kuthandiza ngakhale seamstresses kwambiri wosadziwa kuzindikira maloto awo ndi malingaliro mu zenizeni, tidzayesetsa kumvetsa mmene ndingathere kujambula, mmene kumanga chitsanzo, kupanga miyezo kanjedza, kudula ndi kusoka chidutswa pakati zovala zanu. M'nkhani ino mudzapeza zambiri mbuye kalasi pa chilengedwe cha siketi conical.

Yozungulira siketi - izo ali ndi chimene kuvala?

Choncho, tiyeni tione ubwino onse ndi kuipa kwa mtundu wa zovala. Angatchedwe aliyense chovala conical ndi mawonekedwe frusto-conical, i.e. ndi gawo la chitsanzo kapena paliponse. fomu iyi adzatenge ndi kleshenie kuti mwangwiro amabisa zolakwazo ndi anatsindika ulemu wa maonekedwe.
masiketi Tapered anawagawa zitatu zikuluzikulu:

• Choyamba, ife, ndithudi, tchulani mumaikonda onse siketi dzuwa. Odulidwa koma osati stitched "dzuwa" ndi bwalo ndi bowo pakati pa m'chiuno kapena m'chiuno. odulidwa Izi zimapangitsa chovala modabwitsa zobiriwira. lachitsanzo imeneyi ivomelezana ndi kugonana chilungamo, ndi mwamtheradi chithunzi chilichonse, inu muyenera kusankha zinthu bwino ndi kudziwa kutalika.
• Wina chitsanzo - ndi chovala polusolntse. Mwina anaganiza, 'pozindikira "chitsanzo ndi bwalo theka ndi dzenje. kalembedwe ichinso woyenera madona ndi chithunzi chilichonse.
• Chovala-belu - Njira yachitatu. Ndi chinthu kotala awiri a bwalo mtanda zogwirizana. siketiyi kawirikawiri sewn kwa nsalu wandiweyani. kudula koteroko buku ang'onoang'ono, zomwe zimachititsa chiuno kwambiri anamaliza. Kotero kuti kalembedwe zimenezi nthawi yoyenera kuyang'ana mwini mitundu zazikulu.

Pa atsikana thinned-chochepera adzayang'ana kwambiri ndi Maxi ndi mini. Komabe, okonza akupereka kwa anthu amene ali kukula M kapena S, kulabadira ka minofu wandiweyani, amene adzakupatsani kuchuluka zina mwa ntchafu ndipo ulemerero wa lamadzi. Phatikizani chovala, amene ali pamwamba pa bondo pa dzanja ndi theka, ndi nsonga, mabulawuzi ndi Basques, zoluka, malaya kalembedwe amuna ndi pamwamba bustier.

Pakuti pyshechek zoyenera Maxi kapena MIDI, kufika mpaka pakati pa bondo. Phatikizani ndi bulauzi ndi fungo la anthu a shati wamasiku jekete kapena yomasuka pang'ono, potsindika m'chiuno lamba kapena lamba siketi.

Zida ndi zipangizo

Kulenga chitsanzo ichi, muyenera:

• Pepala lomwe mumanga dongosolo la siketi conical (mwachitsanzo, Zithunzi). Ngati ndinu zatsopano kusoka, mukhoza kujambula mwachindunji pa nsalu, koma achibwana craftswomen odalirika idzazungulira chiwembu anapangidwa mu Baibulo kusodza.
• Pensulo sewero kujambula pa pepala.
• Mel kwa posamutsa chitsanzo kumtunda nkhani nsalu.
• lumo lakuthwa kudula (yabwino suti tailors).
• Dressmaker zikhomo kwa kukonza dongosolo pepala pa nsalu.
• Omwe zimakhala.
• Imange kwa basting ndi zosiyana mtundu nsalu.
• Imange mu mtundu nsalu Belov angachite.
• Kusoka makina.
• Zipper, mabatani (ngati chofunika ndi chitsanzo).
• zinthu zokongoletsera (ngati mukufuna).

Kuchotsa yardsticks

Kuyamba kumanga siketi conical, muyenera kuchotsa miyezo zotsatirazi:

• Art - theka circumference m'chiuno.

Kuwayeza malo thinnest wa torso, ndiyeno unagawanika mu theka.

• Yohane - Utali (Pankhaniyi chovala).

Anayeza kuyambira m'chiuno kapena m'chiuno (zimadalira zimene adzayenerera chovala, kumalo kumene mankhwala lidzatha).

• Anakhala - ndi circumference theka la m'chiuno.

Anayeza pa projecting ntchafu mfundo imeneyi chifukwa lagawidwa mu theka.

• DTB - kutalika kwa m'chiuno m'chiuno chiŵerengero (ngati muli m'chiuno poyerekeza muyezo).

Mtunda ku gawo thinnest wa torso mpaka yotundumukira kunja kwa mpanda mfundo m'chiuno (mosamalitsa perpendicular pansi).

• Fri - kuwonjezera kwa hafu ya circumference a m'chiuno.
• PB - kuwonjezera kwa hafu ya circumference a m'chiuno.

Yomanga zojambula za chovala conical

Pofuna kusokoneza nsalu, timapereka kumanga chitsanzo pa pepala, koma kamodzi inu kupanga yamanga zolondola akhoza anasamutsa kuti chifukwa pa nkhani imene mukufuna kuti kusoka. Chitsanzo cha ntchito yomanga zojambula adzakhala tapered siketi polusolntse.

• Chinthu choyamba pamwamba pa pepala lanu, lembani mzere yopingasa.
• Pezani pakati pa mzere wolunjika kukopedwa ndi inu, adaikamo mfundo, mulembe izo ndi kalata ndi m'Mawu a perpendicular wa utali uliwonse pansi.
• Tsopano ife tikupeza pa m'chiuno chovala chanu ichi kusiya mfundo A ku mbali zonse ziwiri ndipo pansi mtunda kuti mudzalandira pambuyo mawerengedwe a chilinganizo zotsatirazi: Article: 4 + 2. mfundo chikhomo makalata L, B, pansi - T.
• Kulumikiza mfundo zimene semicircle a.
• Mfundo L, B (mbali) ndi mfundo T (pansi) anagona mtunda wofanana Di, chifukwa chizindikiro mfundo N, C, m'munsi - G.
• Anawaika semicircle a.

Mawerengeredwe conical siketi polusolntse anamaliza. Mwa njira, ngati mukufuna kudutsa dzuwa, mungathe kugwiritsa ntchito chitsanzo linaperekedwa kuti pamene kudula kunja pindani nsalu mu theka, angagwirizanitse chitsanzo kwa gawo molunjika za khola ndi Redraw nsalu. Dulani zigawo ziwiri za nsalu zojambula ndi pindani kuti katunduyo, chitsanzo conical siketi dzuwa - kutsogolo kwa inu.

kukonzekera minofu

Kuti mankhwala sasiya chikuoneka choyambirira pambuyo kutsuka choyamba, musanagwiritse ntchito minofu m'pofunika muzipeza mwai.

• Chinthu choyamba kudula kuchokera pa chidutswa cha nsalu pang'ono ndi zilowerere mu kozungulira woyera mu madzi otentha kwa theka la ola. Onani ngati mtundu madzi. M'pofunika kufufuza ngati zinthu limatifotokozera.
• Kwa maola 2-4 zilowerere nsalu lonse mu madzi otentha kapena Anda-. Ngati mungathe kusokerera kwa nsalu wandiweyani, ndiye, kuziyika izo pa lathyathyathya pamwamba, moisten ndi mfuti kutsitsi. Kotero inu mukhoza kuchita zimenezi kuotcha mu wosambitsa ndatsiriza conical siketi.
• nsalu youma, mokoma kufalitsa mu malo woongoka. Popeza zakuthupi si anatambasula.
• Proutyuzhte minofu kupyolera gauze kapena gawo lapadera la nsalu yopyapyala thonje.

mfundo zonse pamwamba ziyenera kuperekedwa pamaso panu kupanga Chithunzi cha siketi conical.

kudula chovala

• Dulani inu poyamba kukopedwa ndi dera kudzera mizere N, G, C ndi N, L, T, B, C.
• Kusamutsa chitsanzo kumtunda nsalu.
• Chokani kwa mizere kunachokera ndi 1 centimeter (msoko gawo) ndi kudula fano chifukwa.

masiketi kusoka

Kuyamba, Mpofunika kuti lamba. Pakuti lamba m'lifupi 5 masentimita muyenera Mzere wa nsalu ya mtundu umodzi monga lamadzi, ndi m'lifupi masentimita 12 ndi kutalika wofanana ndi masentimita + 2 X 5cm.

• Kumbali n'zosiyana, sindikiza ndi zomatira tepi Mzere lonse nsalu kuti asakhalenso lamba.
• Kusoka m'mphepete pamodzi kutalika kwa lamba kudzera overlock ulusi kapena "yokhotakhota" kuchokera mkati.
• Pa wina m'mphepete mbali ya lamba ayenera ulusi, kusanjika gawo la 1 centimeter cha kutalika koyamba.

Lamba ndi okonzeka, inu tsopano akhoza chitani mwachindunji kupanga kwambiri a chovala conical.

• Kuyambira semicircle limene chitsanzo waima m'chiuno pa mbali zonse za zomatira tepi n'kudziphatika kukula kwa zipi anu + 2 cm lililonse.
• Pakati pa chigawo kale kukonzedwa, kusoka mbali pansi apo, kulumikiza ndi m'chiuno semicircle ndi semicircle pansi, popanda kufika kwa mzere m'chiuno masentimita ambiri, omwe ndi zipi wanu.
• Tsopano inu mukhoza kusoka zipper chobisika.
• Iron chitsulo chifukwa kumbuyo msoko.
• Anaŵerama pansi kumbali zonse ofanana kuchuluka kwa minofu ndi pokonza pansi kudzera overlock, makina kapena pamanja.

Kuti kusoka siketi lamba

• Kupatulapo m'chiuno m'mphepete mwa 3 cm ndi kutenga yosala m'ma kutalika.
• Angagwirizanitse lamba pakati pakati pa lamadzi.
• Kusoka lamba siketi ndi lopinda iwo nkhope.
• Pa otsala mainchesi atatu lamanzere lamba kuzungulira kupanga wofanana ndi awiri mabatani + 2 millimeters.
• Kumanja kwa batani kuti Ufumuyo.

Kuti zinatha, mbuye kalasi yathu kupanga siketi conical.